Eytys’s spring 2023 collection borrows its name from Love and Poison, a biography, by David Barnett, of ’90s Britpop sensation Suede. Max Schiller was particularly interested in the acrimonious love triangle that developed among the band’s androgynous lead singer, Brett Anderson, Elastica’s Justine Frischman, and Suede’s nemesis, laddish Damon Albarn of Blur.
The creative director leaned into his love and hate themes directly, screen printing roses on washed denims and dipping bleach-treated jeans in an inky black rubber coating. Male and female models wore clothes interchangeably, touching on the theme of androgyny. Laser-cut linen shirts, which will deliberately fray with washing, took on the aspects of Barnett’s gender-bending lacy shirts, while the Eytys take on the nylon bomber, an Albarn favorite, comes with sleek asymmetric zipper options.
It wasn’t clear how motocross (trending elsewhere) fit into the Britpop theme, but it makes sense that a brand that started with footwear would offer leather pieces. One of the standouts in this offering is a pair of slightly oversized khakis with prep and workwear vibes. The collection’s starting point aside, they might be seen to evoke the All-American post-war theme that seems to be bubbling beneath the surface of several collections this season and in pop culture with the fetishization of the likes of Marilyn Monroe and Elvis Presley.