Tod’s Spring 2023 Menswear Collection

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For today’s presentation at Milan’s Villa Necchi Campiglio, Walter Chiapponi didn’t reference anything other than “what I feel is right for me in this moment,” he said, so there were “no moodboards or muses or storytelling of any sorts” used to shape Tod’s narrative for Spring.

Chiapponi feels confident that the identity refresh he has envisioned for Tod’s is becoming stronger and more on point, which allows for a more relaxed take on the label’s fundamentals. Ditching the catwalk was also related to his desire for a less formulaic approach, more personal and direct. He’s been finding joy by spending time in the countryside; hence the collection was presented through a video shot outdoors in Tuscany.

The collection had a warmth and lightness that reflected the relaxed atmosphere of the life lived closer to nature that Chiapponi is so fond of. Unlined peacoats were cut from blankets; a biker leather jacket had a featherlight feel; a sailor theme of printed shells and knotted ropes on cotton boxy shirts added a layer of casual ease.

While references were not in the picture, Chiapponi, who’s the ultimate movie buff, said he had been fascinated by Bernardo Bertolucci’s Stealing Beauty, and its aesthetic languor stayed with him while he was designing the collection. “What I’m trying to do at Tod’s is to transpose a sense of chic into a younger, relaxed attitude,” he said. “Making casual wear look more elegant, and giving elegance a more casual allure.”

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